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Route 66 Women With Wheels
Route 66 - Day by Day - Return Trip (July 10-15)
Day 10: Salinas, CA to Anderson, CA (R & R at the Windyglen Ranch)
We left Salinas before the sun came up. We were scheduled to arrive in Los Gatos at Chris and Mitch’s (owners of Boots’ canine mother Laser) between 8:00 and 9:00 a.m. for a brief visit before they left for work Monday morning. We spent close to an hour getting acquainted and taking pictures. Leaving beautiful Los Gatos, we headed for San Jose and TeleAdapt (see sponsor page). Here we met with Scott Taylor (pictured at left), Senior Executive Salesman for this mobile communications company who supplied us with an adaptor to use in the car when working on the computer. From there we headed a little south to Santa Cruz, to visit Lisa and the folks at Coolballs4U. A great group, they gave us a quick tour of their offices, replenished our Coolballs supply and wished us well. (Get on the web site and register to win a free Coolball, each month.) The "Tracing Old Routes" crew has been handing out Coolballs all along the route, much to everyone’s delight. They spark a smile on the faces of all who see them. From Santa Cruz, we hit the gas, as we were due in Anderson, CA before dark. Actually, we thought we’d arrive much, much sooner than we did. But we did make good time. With speed limits of 75 mph, we arrived in time for dinner. This is where we would take some R&R for a day-and-a-half, catching up on a few things before heading back eastward - something we’d both like to postpone as long as possible! We’re staying with Don and Sally Papin, whippet breeders, at their home on Windyglen Ranch. Located 14 miles outside of Anderson, Windyglen sits nestled in the mountains with a view of Mt. Shasta. The night we arrived, we had dinner, toured the Ranch, met all the pups (Whippets, Salukis, Borzois and Afghans), and caught up on five years' worth of news.
Day 11 - In Anderson, CA at Windyglen
Today’s Thought: Look at your dog luxuriating in a nap. Do you get that kind of pleasure from simply doing nothing? And how about food? When was the last time you got as excited about a meal as your dog does? And when was the last time you were as happy to see anyone as your dog is happy when you come home? Dogs are better at living than we are. They put us to shame. I have never known a dog that didn’t have better manners than most of us. They overlook our social blunders, ill-temper, and wretched personalities. Dogs can keep their own counsel. A dog can be silent, comfortably, when in company. We really can’t. A dog does not conceal his feelings. He won’t pretend he likes you if he hates you. Dogs are tolerant, and have a sense of humor. I wish we all did. Millions of words have been written about the nobility of dogs and the uniqueness of our friendship with them. No piece of writing, however accomplished, seems able to fully convey the vastness of what we can discover by simply looking into the eyes of a dog.
Day 12: Anderson, CA to Elko, NV ("History is our Autograph")
From Lassen, we drove down 89, through Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation, Indian Valley, beautiful Squaw Valley, and of course, Reno and Lake Tahoe. We skimmed the outer perimeter of Tahoe. Entering the area from the northwest, we went to Tahoe City and turned around, heading north to I-80. Unfortunately, we didn’t think we could afford the extra time needed to circle Lake Tahoe. It’s an active area, with boaters, sun goddesses, and plenty of tourist shops and places to eat. Another time.... We still hadn’t decided where we’d spend the night. Our original plan was to make it to Salt Lake City today and stay there. Even though we got an early start, going through Lassen, Tahoe and Reno took much more time than if we’d been traveling straight Interstate. We reached Winnemucca at 5:00 p.m. and decided we’d go for Elko, NV, located at the center of the Great Basin of northern Nevada. Historical evidence suggests the Western Great Basin has been inhabited by Native Americans for 11,000 to 12,000 years. The general area in and around Elko was occupied by Western Shoshone. Founded as a railroad townsite and railhead for the mines in 1869, Elko has served as the capital of a cattle ranching empire. During the 1980s, gold mining came along. This caused mining giants, such as Newmont Gold (for whom VMC serves as Employee Assistance provider) to develop, finding a way to harvest the gold. Unable to find a KOA within miles of here, we chose another Best Western, surreptitiously bringing the puppies up to the room, one by one. Tomorrow we’ll try for Rawlins, Wyoming. Day 13 and counting....
Advertisement placed by George Donner, Springfield, Illinois on March 18, 1846. One year, almost to the day, before he died in Alder Creek Valley, NV: Westward Ho for Oregon and California. Who wants to go to California without costing them anything? As many as eight young men, of good character, who can drive an ox team, will be accommodated by gentleman who will leave this vicinity about the first of April. Come boys! You can have as much as you want without costing you anything. This government of California gives large tracts of land to persons who have to move there. The first suitable persons to apply will be engaged. G. Donner and others.
Day 13: Elko, NV to Rawlins, Wyoming (second stay in KOA Kabins)
It was 7:00 a.m. by the time we left Elko this morning; later than planned (so what else is new?). We knew we had to keep traveling continuously, for each of the remaining days on the road, if we would be back in Chicago by Saturday evening. Today was no exception, and although there were few “planned” stops, nevertheless, we managed to take in a few more sites. Traveling time in the car was over 12 hours, covering 516 miles. We grabbed a continental breakfast at the Best Western in Elko, walked each dog (remember, we have added one, now), and made one stop at the Elko Post Office. We traveled through some beautiful country today, in three states. Starting out in Nevada, we were tempted at each stop for gas, restroom or otherwise, by the available slot machines. Gassing up just before entering Utah, I forgot to inquire about the car wash that came with the fill-up. Running back into the shop to find out what the procedure was, I slipped a quarter into the one-armed bandit. Thought maybe since I had to make a second trip back into the store, I just might hit the jackpot. Not so. Today was like that for me. Between Elko and Wendover, Utah, sits the Silver Zone Pass (5940 ft.), which begins to resemble the salt lake area with its silver shades on the mountains and ground. One of the best things about this scenery, all across Nevada, is that there are few, if any, road signs, or anything that rings of commercial. To be sure, there are the exceptions, such as Reno, Elko and the like, which are more “urban” than not, with the modern conveniences and usual “restaurant/motel/WalMart row.” By 3:00 p.m., I was just about worthless as far as taking on my stint as driver, so Linda drove a lot of today’s miles. After visiting the Bonneville Salt Flats (pictured above), west of Salt Lake City, I suddenly became very tired and my eyes felt as though I had just made a visit to the optician and been given those miserable drops- the ones that cause your eyes to shut immediately when facing the sun. A reaction that can happen, we learned. Much like snow blindness or sand blindness, the salt has a glare that can play havoc with your vision if you’re out in it long enough. Aside from that, I thoroughly enjoyed the Bonneville Salt Flats. Not much to look at for some, I suspect. But for any auto, racing and/or speed enthusiast, just imagining Craig Breedlove and those who followed, out there on the flats - topping speeds of 600 mph - is thrilling. It’s an eerie kind of place: quiet, desolate almost, and surrounded by beautiful mountains. There are signs warning the public (amateurs) not to drive in certain areas as the salt is thick and vehicles can spin out, get caught in the ruts, and have to call for a tow truck to pull them out. Glancing to the left and right, we noticed several areas where “wanna-bes” performed their figure eights, attempting to get up as much speed as possible and still complete a full circle. Farther on, we came to the SaltAir, a mosque-type structure, built seemingly in the middle of nowhere on the shores of the Great Salt Lake. The SaltAir houses a handful of food concessions and is host to concerts in the area. Tourists are allowed to dip their feet in the water, and I guess, swim. There is the obligatory gift shop (2), complete with salt water taffy for sale, and a breathtaking view. Approaching Salt Lake, we could see the water for several miles. Surrounded by, and sitting inside the mountains, the Great Salt Lake is beautiful. Located on I-80, the Great Salt Lake is approximately 17 miles west of Salt Lake City. It is the largest lake west of the Mississippi, covering 2,100 square miles, with an average depth of 13 feet. The deepest point is 34 feet. Only the Dead Sea has a higher salt content than the Great Salt Lake. The lake’s salinity varies, but percentages have been as high as 27 percent. Neatest of all, you can really float in the Great Salt Lake!! Salt Lake City is gearing up to play host to the 2002 Olympic Winter Games, Paralympic Winter Games and Cultural Olympia, in February and March of that year. Souvenirs are made and already ready for sale. From Salt Lake City, we continued east, plugging toward Wyoming. The scenery was changing by the mile, as Utah began to resemble Arizona with its colors and shapes. Between our refueling stops, food and dog walking breaks, we managed to exit for a few points of interest, or just to regroup, either in roadway turnouts or small towns along the road. While traveling I-80 through Nevada, one is in the “middle of nowhere.” The road, however, is awe-inspiring and well-maintained. It seemed, though, that every 100 miles or less, we’d run into yet another road construction project, with four lanes reduced to two for repaving. I couldn’t help thinking that Nevada’s worst roads (not in disrepair by most standards) resembled Illinois’ best roads. We chose Rawlins, WY as our destination for the night, and made “camp” at a KOA Kabin at the KOA. A clean, well-kept camping facility, there was even a kitchen area for campers, RVers, and those staying in cabins to cook. Access to a stove, sink and picnic tables - one could really live it up! We hit the sack early, wnding up Day 13. “Make Campfires Safe” The campfire is a friend to us when carefully used. It will keep us warm, cook our food, dry our clothes, and add a flickering light of friendship to the night. Most people are careful with campfires. They follow the laws. They build their fires in the right places and at the right times, keep them small, and put them out before they leave. An unattended campfire or sparks from too large a fire can cause an entire forest to burn. Be campfire safe!! Smokey the Bear
Day 14: Rawlins, WY to Grand Island, NE
Upon my return from the shower, I spent some time talking with a gentleman - let's call him Colorado Biker (CB for short, he hailed from Lakeland, CO) - who was camping in the spot next to our Kabin. He was riding his bike from the Denver area to Missoula, MT where he was meeting up with Adventure Biking Tours to ride another 400 miles!! Sixty-six years old, CB has been biking since the late fifties, and was one of the original LA Wheelmen, a biking club started in the early sixties. He told of his many bike trips, and awards he's won in competition for biking distance. Also a walker, CB has placed competitively in "pedestrian walking" when entered in races across the country. We talked at length about the history of biking and how when he was first riding, the people he rode with were setting records then that even today would be very competitive. Much of what CB related sounded similar to what we refer to now as "extreme" sports: biking 100 miles and more at one time. CB has ridden in the Double and Triple Century rides (200 and 300 miles), among many others. I watched as he packed his tent, allotted food supply and other belongings, arranging it just so on the back of the bike. How he accomplished this ("with years of experience," he told me) feat, much less the actual riding from one state to the next, was beyond me. Patience, I thought to myself, is surely needed for this adventure. Upon Linda's return from the shower, she spoke with a woman who, with her husband, was stranded at the KOA in Rawlins. Car trouble. Seems the transmission blew on their Grand Prix and they were waiting for one to be sent from Texas. A week had already passed by; the last word they had on the part was that it was in Denver. Meanwhile, her husband had to miss a week of work - without pay - as they camped at the KOA and waited. As we made our way across I-80 in Wyoming, we passed through Laramie and Cheyenne. Stopping at Cheyenne to send our story from a Kinko's, we then made a stop at the outlet trading post; a bust. From there, we entered Nebraska. The scenery is getting flatter and flatter; we're already missing the mountains. In Sidney, NE we made an obligatory stop at the HUGE Cabella's Outfitter Store. What an extravaganza. As time was short, we didn't spend more than 20 minutes inside, but could have easily killed 3-4 hours in there. A chain, Cabella's can also be found in SD,WI, MI, and MN. On the order of Bass Pro, Cabella's possesses the distinction of being one of Fortune Magazine's Best 100 Companies to Work For in 2000. The sales help were very friendly; the decor, unquestionably wildlife, with deer, moose, bear and several other types of wild game on display (stuffed, of course). There is even a "Bargain Cave" for the clearance stuff. From there, we continued on I-80, straight across Nebraska. Around North Platte is the Great River Road Archway Monument, with (and this is a tip) only one exit. Traveling east, we had to exit a mile before the Archway, doubling back on a frontage road to locate it. A building right next to the Archway that houses a gift shop, museum, etc., has recently been completed. It's not a "must stop," but interesting to note that the Archway is where east meets west. Continuing toward Grand Island and the KOA where we'd be spending the night, We-5 coasted through Gothenburg, Cozad, Lexington and Kearney, NE before reaching our destination around 7:00 p.m. We turned in early in preparation for Day 15, our last on the road. Concerning Weather: We monitor the National Weather Service Radio 24 hours a day. On occasion, we have severe weatherwatches and WARNINGS in our area. Severe thunderstorm WARNINGS are not usually a concern. They involve rain, possible hail, and sometimes strong winds. For a tornado WARNING, we have a siren that will go off. That will be your warning to come to the office for shelter. The office is the designated storm shelter for the campground. We are in Southwest Hamilton County; however, we are very close to the HALL county line (just west of us less than 1/2 mile). Since most storms track from the west (and southwest), we take shelter when HALL county is called for a WARNING...... (In case of a Tornado Warning, if you have a flashlight handy, please bring it...Thanks!) *Handout in our KOA Kampground info, Grand Island, NE
Day 15: Grand Island, NE to Chicago, IL
Most of today's route was uneventful over I-80. Whenever we saw something that looked halfway interesting, we coasted by; most things didn't deserve a full stop. When cruising through Des Moines, however, we did make a visit to my editor, Ken Chester (pictured), President of Motor News Media Syndicate, in Urbandale. After a tour of his office, we hopped back on I-80, with six-plus more hours to go. Reflections Many of the travelers we met along Route 66 had traveled it before; in several cases, when they were young and had come across The Route, with family, moving out to LA. Collective memories of these trips were sharp. As each person related his/her experience, it was as though the trip had been made yesterday. Traveling Route 66 was something they wouldn't forget. Christine and David Williams, editors of Route66.com, have traveled The Route several times. David, most recently, on the Enfield motorcycle. He was on the Mother Road for 16 weeks, raising awareness for preservation of The Route and talking with chambers in towns along the way about working with him when he runs it next year. It would appear he never tires of going up and down Route 66. Christine and David are dedicated to The Route and clearly, following their dream. Their commitment and vision to preserving what is left of the Mother Road is commendable. How lucky they are to be doing what they love, and sustaining a belief in what is important to all Americans: holding on to history and making sure there is something left for future generations. There are countless numbers of visitors from other countries who come to America for the sole purpose of driving Route 66. They have heard the stories, read about its rich history, and perceive it as very "American." They want to be a part of it. Christine and David tell about a woman from Sweden, who spent six weeks on Route 66, traveling alone. This is a story that begs to be told. From her perspective, what did she think of the Mother Road? The scenery and the people? The commercialism and those folks she met along the way. Talking with travelers along Route 66, asking them how they feel about road tripping, one gets somewhat "biased" responses. After all, anyone who would drive, bike, roller blade or motorcycle over 2000 miles (about 2,300), has to love road tripping. The local residents we spoke to were all 66ers, having grown up on The Route, still making a home there. Possessing more than just a physical presence, The Route has been the subject of TV shows (most notably, "Route 66" with Martin Milner and George Maharis), novels (Kerouac's "On the Road"), and songs (Bobby Troup's "Get Your Kicks on Route 66"). And, although there isn't much of the original road that's around today, there is enough to give the road tripper a taste of a bygone era. So it is with "best laid plans," our original schedule varied. We had built in six hours a day for driving, with six hours for sight-seeing, food and refueling stops and any other miscellaneous. A total of somewhere around 12 hours a day on the road. Some days were more, some less. But mostly more. We found it was difficult to see all that we'd hoped to see, not allowing for time "lost," or other distractions. Having traveled a lot by car, both Linda and I were well aware of this. Two more weeks would have evened the trip out nicely. We were constantly short of time after arriving at the sights. We'd take a picture or two, conduct a quick onceover of the attraction, play Chinese fire drill and proceed on our way. More realistic than I, Linda set our time-line up based on her "best guess" as to what we would want to see and what we would have time to see. She also made a fluid "possibilities" list, one we could add to as we traveled. What we found out, and what Linda already knew, is that we had to "live it" to know if we would have time for everything. Some of the stops we listed weren't found (we missed a few things in our 47 times lost!!); some we just didn't have time to make. The "extra" day Linda built in for us is surprisingly still there. In fact, as I write, we're debating it even now. We're due to be in Chicago in a couple of hours. Do we charge on, or do we camp out one more night? Postponing the inevitable? We're thinking on it.
Copyright 2000 © Women With Wheels |
Alternative State Motto for California: “As Seen on TV”
Tuesday we set out early for the camera shop to develop our 15 rolls of film, do some laundry, and visit Kinko's for copies and Internet use. We also wanted to have the oil changed in the Tahoe. Accomplishing all this by 2:00 p.m., we headed back to Windyglen to sort our pictures. This took some time, as we strained our brains to remember each place we’d been in the last 10 days. At 6:00 p.m., we headed for Logan’s Roadhouse for dinner; I rode with Don on his 1400-cc Honda Gold Wing, and Linda and Sally followed in the van. Now to repack the Tahoe for an early start tomorrow. We’ve got a lot of road to cover, and the week is closing in on us. Boo-hoo.
Rising with the sun, we left Windyglen at 6:30 a.m., headed for Lassen Volcanic National Park. South and east of Anderson, this is a sight to behold. Entering the Park at Manzanita Lake (NW), we drove through the Park with its 150 miles of foot trails, and over 50 back country lakes and streams. As we navigated each bend in the road, the view was prettier than the last. Most memorable, though, is the strong smell of the pine trees. You’d swear someone sprayed pine air freshener, it was so fresh. Visitors to the Park can hang glide and paraglide within the Hat Creek Rim, March through November. There are a museum, church, golf course and casino, as well.
Alternative state motto for Nevada: Two-to-one you'll come again.
Having lost one hour already heading east, we were a little thrown off. I
awoke at 5:30 a.m., but thought it was an hour earlier. Running all 3 pups out ("Ready, Willy and Able"), I had planned to come back and lie down for at least one more hour. Ha! Not so. Instead, I marched myself to the KOA restrooms and showers; with one eye closed, I might add.
Neither Linda nor I bounded out of bed this morning, realizing all too well that we were headed for home, this being our last day of the Tracing Old Routes Inaugural Tour. The trip has exceeded our expectations, restoring our faith and belief in the power of independence and freedom. Luck was with us, from good weather, to decent accomodations, good health and chance meetings with others. It almost seems that people are friendlier when you're traveling. I suppose that could be for a lot of reasons: they are more relaxed, or sharing a common experience. Where this is most noticeable is in the campgrounds. For someone like CB (in yesterday's log), it must be kind of lonesome riding on a bicycle all day, without anyone to talk to; alone with your thoughts. He had so much to tell. I found myself wishing I had a tape recorder and that he and I could have spent a couple of hours talking.